Celebrating 140 Years of Innovation: The Timeless Legacy of Breitling Watches

Breitling, a name synonymous today with precision, innovation, and luxury, celebrates its 140th anniversary this year. For over a century, it has stood as a pillar in the Swiss watchmaking industry, a sector that is both culturally and economically vital to the nation. The company’s founder, Léon Breitling, originally designed his watches to assist explorers and professionals whose work required impeccable timekeeping and cutting-edge technology.

Throughout its 140-year journey, the brand has preserved its origins and unique spirit, never failing to modernize and adapt to new challenges. Join us down memory lane as we explore the eras of Breitling’s fascinating history, from its humble beginnings to its present-day status as a globally renowned luxury brand.

Breitling’s watches, from one of the earliest models to the most modern one. Left to right: Breitling’s wrist-worn chronograph (1915), Navitimer Cosmonaute (1962), SuperOcean Chrono-Matic (1970), Emergency II (2013), Premier Chronograph (2023)
Source: Breitling

Léon Breitling’s Inventive Genius and the Origins

The story begins in 1884, when 24-year-old watchmaker Léon Breitling opened an atelier in Saint-Imier, laying the foundation for what would later become Breitling, an iconic brand adored by adventurers worldwide. His company was born out of a pure and authentic passion for timekeeping, which he acquired at a young age, and unshakable determination to bring the Swiss watchmaking industry to new heights.

Léon Breitling, the founder of Breitling
Source: Breitling

For Breitling, the path forward was synonymous with constant innovation, which quickly earned his atelier a reputation as the manufacturer of the most advanced timekeeping instruments. Throughout his career, Mr. Breitling patented dozens of inventions, including powerful watch movements and a novel chronograph mechanism, which guaranteed a level of precision that was previously unheard of. This precision caused athletes, scientists, and, especially, aviators to flock to Léon Breitling’s atelier.

In 1892, Breitling moved its operations to a factory in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the heart of the Swiss watchmaking industry. Production ramped up, and just a decade after its conception, the company celebrated a monumental milestone — the sale of 100'000 chronographs and stopwatches.

An announcement celebrating the milestone of selling 100'000 chronographs and stopwatches
Source: Breitling

In 1914, Léon Breitling passed on the ownership of the company to his son, Gaston, who continued the era of innovation. Gaston was the creator of one of the first wrist-worn chronographs with a separate pusher for starting and stopping time count. This invention became a cornerstone for the development of the entire industry — marking the point where chronograph designs began to resemble modern-day watches.

Combining Purpose and Style

Willy Breitling, a grandson of Léon Breitling
Source: Breitling

The 1930s was a significant decade in European history, standing out because of its rapid scientific progress and major political changes. It was also the decade that saw the rise of aviation, making the once-distant dream of human flight a reality. Taking aircraft to high altitudes was a monumental task that required tools with exceptional precision. Developing such tools was a goal set by Willy Breitling, who assumed the company leadership in 1932.

He created the “HUIT Aviation” department, dedicated to building the most reliable on-board instruments for military and civilian aviators. In 1939, Breitling became an official supplier for the Royal Air Force, and very soon after that, Breitling was officially one of the most respected names in the aviation industry worldwide. That said, Willy Breitling’s leadership wasn’t only about functional progress — his long-term strategy for Breitling also emphasized the aesthetics and style of future models.

For Willy Breitling, it was about going from a tool watch into a wearable beautiful aesthetic, tasteful watch. In terms of the evolution of the brand, [Premier] was an absolutely key product.
— Breitling’s CEO, Georges Kern, during a Revolution Watch interview

The origins of the Breitling Premier watch
Source: Breitling

The Breitling Premier collection was launched in 1943 and immediately set a new standard for the brand– and the industry. It was a true stroke of genius, transforming Breitling into an elegant watch, all while preserving its functionality and sophistication. The features of the Premier collection: clean lines, balanced proportions, and sleek bezels, quickly became a classic and remain popular even today.

The stunning success of Premier reshaped Breitling’s trajectory, leading to the emergence of other iconic collections in the following decades, including intricate Navitimer for pilots, waterproof SuperOcean for diving enthusiasts, and fashionable Top Time for athletes. These designs immortalized Willy Breitling’s legacy and defined the DNA of a Breitling watch.

Navitimer, SuperOcean, and Top Time watches were the pillars of Breitling's success in the middle of the century
Source: Breitling

The Revolution of Ernest Schneider

The late 1970s was a turbulent time for many watchmakers due to the so-called Quartz Revolution. Quartz watches use a battery to power a quartz crystal oscillator, which regulates timekeeping with unprecedented accuracy compared to mechanical watches. Breitling was among the Swiss watchmakers that needed to rapidly adapt to this shifting tide. With Willy Breitling's health in decline, the company’s leadership had to be passed on to a person with enough determination and willpower to weather the storm and preserve the Breitling name. Fortunately, Ernest Schneider was exactly that person.

Ernest Schneider, the fourth CEO of Breitling
Source: Breitling

Indeed, in 1979, aviation enthusiast and Breitling admirer Ernest Schneider assumed the leadership role. Under the “instruments for professionals” slogan, Schneider embraced both quartz and mechanical technologies. On one hand, Breitling maintained the status quo in the niche of mechanical watches. On the other, the company implemented quartz technology, allowing it to stay competitive in larger markets.

This approach paid off. Not only was Breitling able to withstand the turbulence, but it also managed to reintroduce itself to the world at the same time. Ernest, and later his son, Théodore Schneider, successfully launched new watch collections, including the Emergency and the Chronomat 1984, which became one of the brand’s most well-known designs. This ensured that Breitling’s spirit continued into the new millennium.

The Chronomat 1984, one of the most iconic watches by Breitling
Source: Breitling

Present Day and Worldwide Expansion

After Breitling’s ownership was acquired by the private equity firm CVC Capital Partners in 2017, Georges Kern became the company’s CEO. His mission was to revitalize the brand’s legacy and ensure that Breitling kept pace with the times. Kern’s efforts were focused on several strategic goals, including reintroducing classical collections, entering new markets, and advancing sustainability and digitalization initiatives.

Breitling’s CEO, Georges Kern in Hong Kong
Source: Getty Images

Georges Kern’s approach to these challenges has definitely proved fruitful. Under his leadership, Breitling has brought back the Navitimer and Premier collections, introduced the stylish Super Chronomat watch, and expanded its Professional collection. The brand continues to experiment with watch colors and features while always remaining true to the Breitling brand, which started as a state-of-the-art watch, adventurous and optimistic in spirit.

Breitling is not afraid to experiment with unorthodox and upbeat color palettes
Source: Breitling

Today, Breitling is stronger than ever. Through its private status, Breitling was able to withstand the tumultuous times of COVID-19, while many other brands suffered significant losses or were forced into mergers with larger corporations. Since 2017, Breitling’s revenue has been growing steadily, reaching CHF 870 million in 2023, and pushing beyond its limits every year. The brand is adored by professionals in high-profile sports and extreme outdoor activities, as well as celebrities from Bear Grylls to Erling Haaland. Meanwhile, Breitling’s influence continues to expand into new markets, allowing us to foresee nothing but a bright and successful future ahead.

Final Thoughts

Breitling is a renowned brand that has stood the test of time, not once letting its admirers down. Its history is vivid and eventful, with Léon Breitling’s original vision continuing to influence the company’s operations today—evolving in form but never fading.

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